At Large  May 5, 2025  Megan D Robinson

Fabiola Jean-Louis on the Language of Fashion

Courtesy the artist and Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston

The exhibition "Waters of the Abyss: An Intersection of Spirit and Freedom" in the Hostetter Gallery, 27 February 2025 – 25 May 2025. Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston

The first Haitian female artist to exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art–with her remarkable paper dress sculpture, Justice of Ezili–conceptual artist Fabiola Jean-Louis (b. 1978) captures viewers’ attention with her Afro Surrealist creations. Skillfully blending sculpture, photography, paper textiles, and painting, Jean-Louis creates stunningly intricate historic sculptural gowns, mysterious reliquaries, haunting portraits, and masked forms that speak of beauty, history, and possibility. Drawing on science and science fiction, folklore and the spiritual practices of her Haitian culture, while referencing the historical and contemporary experiences of the African diaspora, Jean-Louis artfully explores the complexities of Blackness. Art & Object recently spoke to the artist about her work.

Courtesy of the artist. © Fabiola Jean-Louis

Photo of Fabiola Jean-Louis

Megan D Robinson: You have become known for your haute couture sculptural creations. What drew you to work with fashion as a medium?

Fabiola Jean-Louise: Fashion, to me, is a language—one that communicates without words, carrying with it the power to exalt, to conceal, to declare. I was drawn to it not simply as adornment, but as a vessel of historical memory and resistance. Garments, especially those fashioned in the style of 18th-century European court dress, became a way to interrogate narratives of power, beauty, and Black erasure. My work uses the aesthetics of couture to seduce, only to later reveal the complex, often painful, truths woven into the seams of colonial history. The sculptural dresses I create from paper aren't just garments; they are reimagined armor, relics, and testimonies—embodiments of memory and ancestral presence.

MDR: You work with a fascinating array of materials, from paper pulp to gems and minerals. What draws you to work with these materials?

©2024 Fabiola Jean-Louis. Photo: Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston

Fabiola Jean-Louis (Haitian 1978 - ), All That Was and Nevermore, 2024. Papier-mâché, paint on paper, crystals, resin enamel, sequins, beads, and mixed media decorations.

FJL: Each material I work with carries its own spirit and symbolism. Paper, for example, is fragile yet capable of incredible transformation—it’s an apt metaphor for the resilience of oppressed peoples and the hidden histories I seek to uncover. But I don’t stop there. I add gems, gold, glass, and metal to the material of paper to signal something deeper: that I am adding value to something that is often dismissed as worthless, to challenge and expose the very systems that define worth. In doing so, I am also asserting the value of human life—specifically, Black life.

These materials are not chosen for spectacle; they are deliberate and ceremonial. Gems and minerals call back to the Earth, to ancestral wealth and stolen resources. Their presence in my work is a quiet rebellion against erasure—a way to restore dignity, beauty, and sacredness where it was denied. Through this alchemical process, I seek to create objects that carry not just form, but weight: emotional, historical, and spiritual.

MDR: How are history, culture, and spirituality important in your work?

Courtesy the artist and Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston

The exhibition "Waters of the Abyss: An Intersection of Spirit and Freedom" in the Hostetter Gallery, 27 February 2025 – 25 May 2025. Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston

FJL: History is the backbone of my practice, but I engage with it through a decolonial, spirit-led lens. I’m not merely retelling events—I’m re-animating what was buried, silenced, or distorted. As a Haitian woman and time traveler, I’m deeply invested in the cultural and spiritual legacies of African diasporic peoples, especially those shaped by the Haitian Revolution and Vodou cosmology. Spirit is always present in my work—not as metaphor, but as collaborator. My creations are often inhabited by ancestral energies; they serve as vessels for those who came before me and for truths that exist beyond the veil. Culture, then, is not static but something I co-create with my foremothers—through image, object, and ritualized form.

©2024 Fabiola Jean-Louis. Photo: Fabiola Jean-Louis

Fabiola Jean-Louis (Haitian 1978 - ), Justice of Ezili, 2021. Papier-mâché, gold, Swarovski crystals, lapis lazuli, labradorite, brass, ink, and resin. 

MDR: Can you talk about the evolution of your work in your latest exhibition, Waters of the Abyss: An Intersection of Spirit and Freedom?

FJL: Waters of the Abyss marks a deepening in my sculptural language—a more embodied, spatial, and metaphysical turn in the work. While I didn’t create ceremonial masks for this collection, I intentionally drew inspiration from ancient African artifacts that held ceremonial, spiritual, and cultural significance. These objects weren’t just aesthetic—they were alive, encoded with memory, and often served as conduits between worlds. I wanted to channel that same kind of energy and presence.

©2024 Fabiola Jean-Louis. Photo: Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston

Fabiola Jean-Louis (Haitian 1978 - ), Mermaid Portals (detail), 2024. Papier-mâché, shells, crystals, mirror. 

The sculptural forms in this exhibition function as reliquaries and portals—sacred vessels that hold the weight of ancestral stories and submerged truths. This evolution feels like a return to the origin and the beyond simultaneously. It is rooted in history, but it moves through spirit. I’m not just building objects—I’m constructing spaces for communion, for remembrance, for the kind of seeing and feeling that goes beyond what’s visible. This work is an invitation to step into the Abyss—not as a place of darkness, but as a threshold where freedom and spirit meet.

MDR: What do you want people to know about your work? What do you hope viewers experience through your work?

FJL: I want people to understand that my work is not simply about aesthetics or even history—it is about liberation. It is a space where beauty and brutality coexist, where spirit speaks, and where the past and future collapse into the now. I hope viewers experience something that resonates in their bones—a recognition, a discomfort, a calling. My work is an invitation to see differently, to feel more deeply, and to remember that the path to freedom has always been forged through imagination, resistance, and the divine.

ƽ̨app the Author

Megan D Robinson

Megan D Robinson writes for Art & Object and the Iowa Source.

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